Before purchasing tools, timber and materials, read every step thoroughly, then talk to one of our experts

Before purchasing tools, timber and

materials, read every step thoroughly

then talk to one of our experts

This outdoor table with attached seats features

uncomplicated cutting and assembly techniques and you

can build it in a day. It uses standard dimensional timber

sizes and only basic carpentry tools are required for the

fabrication.

Step 1: Selecting Materials

The basic components of this project are the table top

and supports, seat tops and supports, and the legs.

Because your table is likely to be exposed to the

weather we have chosen treated pine for the

construction, although you could use another suitably

durable and dimensioned timber if desired. Treated pine

timber should have an H4 rating for on, or below ground

application and an H3 rating for above ground.

This timber is treated with compounds of copper,

chromium and arsenic, termed CCA. When using this

material:

• Wear gloves and dust masks when sawing.

• Any cut or sawn surface of this material will need

resealing to ensure its effectiveness in resisting

attack.

• Dispose of any off cuts by burying them. Don't

burn them as the smoke and ash are toxic

Coach bolts, nuts, washers and batten screws should be

hot-dipped galvanised to maximise the longevity of your

picnic table.

Ideally for this design the table length could be 1800mm

or 2100mm. For an 1800mm long table you will need the

following, so you should adjust the length of the table

and seat tops if you opt for a longer length.

2/2400mm lengths of 140mm x 45mm for the 4 legs.

4/1800mm lengths of 90mm x 45mm for the 4 seat

supports.

2/2400mm lengths of 140mm x 45mm for the 4 table top

supports.

7/1800mm lengths 140mm x 45mm for the table top.

2/1800mm lengths 140mm x 45mm for the seat top.

4/1800mm lengths 90mm x 45mm for the seat top.

The fixings you will need are 8mm X 125mm galvanised coach bolts,

washers and nuts (16 sets), 75mm treated pine screws (208).

Step 2: Cutting The Legs

The legs are cut from two 2400mm lengths of 140x45 treated pine.

First, cut each 2400mm length into two 1200mm lengths. You should

now have four legs each measuring 1200mm. Each leg now has to be

mitre cut at 45 degrees at each end so that the ends are parallel.

The next step is the most critical of the whole project so take your time

to ensure you get it right.

Use a combination square and measure back 45mm along the mitre

cut, from the apex of the leg. Mark a line perpendicular to the mitre cut,

which should end at the edge of the leg, 45mm across. Mark and cut

these points off on all eight ends of the four legs. That’s as hard as it

gets and completes cutting of the legs.

On a flat surface (and using the

diagram as a guide) lay out the

legs in pairs with the two 45mm

end faces butted together. The

other 45mm faces represent the

outermost extremities of the

table. The parallel mitre cuts

form the contact points with the underside of the tabletop and the

ground.

With the legs aligned in this fashion, measure the distance between

the outer ends of one set of legs; it should be around 1717mm. Repeat

the measurement on the other set of legs to make sure it is the same.

In the next step, you will use this measurement to determine the length

of the beam that will support the seats.

Step 3: Cutting The Seat Supports

By cutting the seat supports to the measurement you made in the last

step, the outer edge of the seat will be plumb with the outer end of the

legs. The advantage of this is that the whole thing can be propped up

on its side without it falling over when you want to mow or rake under

it.

You will need four seat supports

so, using the 1800mm lengths

of 90mm x 45mm, cut four seat

supports to the measurement

made in Step 1. Now mitre cut

the ends of the beams so the

ends angle inward and

downward on all eight ends as per the diagram.

The seat supports are used in pairs, at each end, sandwiching the leg

assemblies and are attached at a height suitable for a final seat top

height of 440mm. Therefore the top of the seat support is set at a

height of 395mm from the ground.

Step 4: Cutting The Table Top Supports

The table top is supported by pairs of supports sandwiching the legs, in

the same manner as the seat supports. The length of the table top

supports is determined by measuring the distance between the

intersecting points of the seat supports and the legs. It should be about

1015mm.

HBT Project Ideas and Information Series: Outdoor Table & Seats 012-10/04-01

So, using the two

2400mm lengths

of 140mm x

45mm, cut four

table top supports

to 1015mm (or to

the measurement

you made), and mitre the ends, as you did for the seat

supports.

Step 4: Top & Seat Planks

140mm x 45mm planking is used for the table top and

based on this and the length of the table top supports,

we can determine that we can use seven 140mm x

45mm planks, set at 10mm spacing, to achieve a

1040mm wide top. This will allow a slight overhang on

each side of the supports and the spacing can be

adjusted if your measurement for the supports was not

quite 1015mm.

Use the seven 1800mm lengths of 140mm x 45mm for

the table top.

The seat tops will need to cover about 350mm and to

achieve this, the seat is planked with the one 140mm x

45mm plank flanked by two 90mm x 45mm planks. The

spacing on the seat planks is set to cover the entire

space from the outer end of the seat beams to the edge

of the legs.

Use two 1800mm lengths 140mm x 45mm and

four1800mm lengths 90mm x 45mm for the seat tops.

Step 5: Leg Assembly

Previous diagrams have shown how everything fits

together so now it’s time for the actual assembly.

Start with the leg assemblies by laying a table top

support and a seat support flat on a large level work

surface, such as a garage or workshop floor. Now lay a

pair of legs on top of the supports, and then lay another

pair of supports on top of the leg pieces.

Use a framing square to ensure that the legs are exactly

perpendicular at the corner where they meet. Measure

the height of the seat beams (395mm)from the bottom of

the legs, a straightedge laid across the bottoms of the

legs is handy for this.

Once everything is in position, drill 8mm holes through

both the supports and the leg at two locations where

each pair of pieces connect to each other. On the

inboard surface of the lower supports, use a 25mm

spade bit to counter sink the hole about 10mm deep.

Use the 8mm X 125mm carriage bolts with a flat washer

under each nut to fasten the leg assembly together. The

nut and washer are used on the countersunk side of the

supports. Care should be taken to get everything aligned correctly to

avoid a table that rocks.

Repeat the procedure for the other leg assembly.

Step 5: Top and Seat Assembly

The leg assemblies should be fixed about 250mm in from the ends of

the table top. Screw the top and seat planking into place on top of the

table top supports and seat supports using two 75mm treated pine

screws to fasten at each intersection of planks and beams. For a

neater appearance you should initially use a ruler to mark out the

position of the screws and pre-drill and counter sink all holes.

Hints

• With the addition of intermediate leg and support assemblies,

there is virtually no limit on the length of the table.

• If the table is to be used on a lawn or dirt surface it is advisable

to use H4 treated timber for the legs and H3 treated for the

other components.

• To avoid twisting, bending and cupping, especially for the table

top and seat planking, use good quality kiln dried timber.

Disclaimer:

The Retailer which supplies this information (which includes the authors of this advice and

the owner, proprietors and employees) is not responsible for the results of any actions

taken on the basis of this information nor for any error or omission in this advice. The

Retailer expressly disclaims all and any liability and responsibility in respect of anything

done consequent on the whole or any part of this advice.

The recipient of this advice is advised to call a qualified tradesperson such as an

electrician, plumber or carpenter where expert services are required.

Building permits may be required and there may be legal requirements or statutory bodies

that need to be followed in the implementation of this advice. All such permits and

requirements are the responsibility of the recipient of this advice.

With Compliments